Crochet Colourwork Tests

Having been completely savaged by the crochet bug, my next self imposed task is to see how I can animate it. Obviously. So with this in mind, I decided to carry out a few tests of different ways to create an image out of yarn. Also known as colourwork. I’ve so far tried three methods, some more successful than others, as you’ll find out below. The first method was mosaic crochet. And it’s safe to say I won’t be using that method for this pattern:

It was either the wrong pattern for the technique, or I was tired and it wasn’t really clicking that well for me. Likely the latter, but basically it just went wrong and I didn’t see the point in continuing through with it. To be honest the technique felt like a lot of wasted yarn too, because you crochet over a lot of the stitches as well. It looks great for some patterns- I’ve watched a fair few videos about it and seen a load of images of how it can look when carried out correctly, so it is a very cool technique, but unfortunately just not for me at this time. Maybe I’ll try again, who knows…

Oh yeah, before I go any further, I should say that this pattern is again self drafted, based on one of my own designs:

And below is how it looks after I was finished with it, after the next technique:

The next method I tried (and stuck to) was tapestry crochet. This felt a lot more logical to me- it was essentially like creating a big, crochet cross stitch! The pattern is essentially the same, in terms of a somewhat pixelated image, but obviously the technique is quite different!

I actually started this one again, because I had created the foundation chain too tightly so it started to fan inwards (not a good look), but I unravelled it and persisted through and completed the piece. Still, I lost one hour, but suppose I learnt something from that hour, to be mindful of the tightness of the starting chain. Including the lost hour, plus weaving in all the ends, it took five hours in total. I used a 4mm hook, and DK 100% acrylic yarn. The finished size measures approx 7.5in x 5in. Here’s the finished piece:

This was before I weaved in the ends:

And because it wasn’t the cleanest on the front, I actually went over some of it with my needle, in order to tidy it up a little and make the picture appear ‘cleaner’. Here is what it looked like pre tidying it up (you can see the changes if you compare it to the finished version above). It’s like a good old game of spot the difference!

As you can see in the photos, I did actually carry my yarn under some of the stitches, because it made for a smoother crochet process. But I learnt that when working on the wrong side, the carried yarn does unfortunately poke through. So in the future, I think I will try the intarsia technique, which is where you use separate bobbins/ skeins of yarn and drop those to the wrong side when you’re not working with them. You do not carry the yarn in this technique, meaning the final image will be cleaner. I also learnt midway, that if you’re crocheting a different colour on the above row, then on the right side rows, you work front loop only and on the wrong side rows, you work back loop only. This again, makes it all look neater/ nicer. I might even have another go at this, but not carry the yarn and do the BLO/ FLO the whole way through.

On finishing the piece, I decided to try another test, because I wasn’t quite that happy with how the finished version looked. In my opinion, the legs felt a bit too unclear and I thought that when this piece is animated, they might get a little too lost within the movement and end of looking like a blurry kind of mess. I toyed with the idea of embroidering it even more, to make the image clearer, but then what’s the point of crocheting something if I’m just going to embroider it? Then I may as well just create an embroidery rather than a crochet piece, so it kind of defeats the object.

I then had an idea of working right side only. This way, the yarn will be carried all to the back, plus it will all be forward facing, so the colour changes will all look uniform and the whole piece should just look neater. So I used what I learned in my failed mosaic crochet attempt, in terms of working from right to left only, rather than turning my work and implementing a border stitch at the beginning and end of each row.

I used all the same yarn/ hook size as above and the finished measurements are pretty similar, though this one took a total of 7 hours, 45 minutes. But, some of that was because I started again for a reason I no longer remember(!) and also because I created an envelope border to hide the ends.

And I’m just going to say here, the border is horrible!! It is NOT to my taste and to be honest, I think it just ruins the piece! But in the process, I did learn a new technique (one I likely won’t use again, mind) and I now know that creating a border in this way is not for me. It’s just not my style.

Border aside, the image in the middle is what we’re really here to talk about. And the horse is much, much cleaner than the first one. The legs are more defined and I just prefer the whole overall look. Comparison below:

But, as you can see, the image is slanting to the right. This is because I wasn’t turning each row at the end and with each row, the crochet tends to shift. I need to do some research into how to prevent this, because if this piece wasn’t slanted, then I’m sure this technique is the one I’d prefer to go with. I also didn’t carry the yarn here, so yes, there were sooo many ends to weave in!

…that aside, the image is one I’m a lot happier with. Either that, or I should do some research into how to create a cleaner image using the first technique. The first way was a bit easier, because you could just crochet continuously and didn’t need to fasten on/ off for each row. Hmm, definitely got to do some thinking/ reading to do around all this. I’ve lined up several videos already about this on my YouTube watch later playlist. Despite my dilemma here, I feel I’m on the right track to create what I want to be making and having only been at this just over a couple of months, I don’t feel I’m doing too badly! I shouldn’t be so hard on myself if things don’t quite work out first time round, plus the learning experience here is valuable too. And that’s why I carried out these tests. As always watch this space, see you next time xo

I Wish I Was There- first screening!!

Excited to announce that 'I Wish I Was There' has its first public outing on Tuesday 18th November, at Showroom Shorts, at (you've guessed it) the Showroom Cinema in Sheffield! The night starts at 8.30pm (until late) and it's always a good time. This is the 14th birthday of the event as well, so alongside the quality films being shown, there's going to be an even bigger raffle than usual, plus cake(!) and more birthday shenanigans I should expect! It's also FREE entry! Bring your friends, bring your enemies, it's going to be a good 'un xo

West Bromwich Albion Women Photos

Sunday (2nd November 2025) was a trip down to the west midlands for West Bromwich Albion Women 1-1 Middlesbrough FC Women, in the FAWNL Northern Premier Division. It was announced at the beginning of this season that WBA Women would play all their home games at the Alexander Stadium, a venue that has rarely seen senior football played. And having driven past it on numerous journeys along the M6, I could have only dreamed of this moment (sad as that sounds)! And a bonus that a women's team is using it, too. It was a very nice atmosphere, and it's always great meeting other photographers- both from WBA were a friendly pair!

This is my 6th photography post since the start of October this year- can you guess that I'm relishing being back pitchside again?!

As usual, few pics down below, full set HERE.

Crochet Jumper

So I went from creating a (unintentionally ill-fitting) hat, to my first amigurumi creature, to now a jumper. And I am so proud of it. Definitely going to be wearing it a LOT.

I decided on a jumper, because I really like the idea of being able to make something wearable from essentially a few bits of string. I also like the fact that with crochet, there’s no pattern needed- well, not when you don’t want there to be and can essentially work something up straight from your imagination. Self drafting my third crochet creation and first proper wearable was perhaps a bold move. But to be honest, I find the idea of self drafting much easier than following a written pattern, because I’m much more of a visual person than anything else and find the patterns harder to follow than the wording/ diagrams etc that I come up with to create my own. If mine was written into a pattern, then it would read the same, but I feel like I understand my way much better. Saying that though, I did use this tutorial as a guide, but went off piste in a lot of places.

I based this jumper on an already existing one of mine, which I’ve had for ten years now, so it’s showing a bit of wear. It was from Primark, so ten years is pretty good going IMO. Anyway, it’s been relegated to a skate jumper now: the graveyard where my clothes go when I don’t want to wear them for normal wear anymore if they’re looking a bit tatty, so don’t mind them getting a bit ripped or dirty during a skate sesh!

This was my original pattern diagram, with measurements:

The final piece measures slightly differently, but still fits great. Acrylic yarn stretches, a lot! Plus, there was a lot to learn regarding tension etc.

I’ll kind of write out what I did as best as I can in order, mainly for myself for when I do it again, but also to impart any knowledge if you’re reading this and are inspired to create your own. I urge you to do so- crochet is honestly super fun. Plus, you can make whatever you want. But, be warned: crochet is extremely addictive! Don’t say I didn’t tell you.

This jumper is made in the ‘drop shoulder’, bottom up construction technique. So I started with creating the two main panels- one each for the front and back. I started on the front one, creating a chain to stretch to my desired width of 23 inches. I wanted the jumper to be a loose fitted crop style piece, mirroring the jumper that I was trying to replicate. I chained 93, ending up with 90 actual crochet stitches on each row. I just used a basic double crochet stitch (US terminology and that will be used throughout this post. I am UK based, but it seems from what I’ve gathered online that the US terms are the most universally used). I used this stitch because it works up quite fast, plus I think it looks pretty nice and also it’s quite stretchy, which is good for wearables.

…And before I forget, I used a 4mm hook (besides for the ribbing and when sewing it all together, where I dropped to a 3mm hook- I felt the ribbing looked a bit nicer and less bulky with the smaller hook). The yarn I used was a DK yarn, ‘Wendy Supreme’ 100% acrylic, in the shade ‘cinnamon’. I purchased 6 skeins (around £2.45 each if I remember correctly, from northern discount store Boyes) of 100g/ 322 yards, but only used 4 balls in total, or just over- hard to tell exactly. So now I have a better gauge of how much yarn is needed for a project such as this. But I now also have a lot left over- colour block or patchwork jumper coming up anyone?!

I actually started creating the panels a few times and needed to unravel it at various different stages. Firstly, because my project was fanning out. I got several rows in and realised this was just going to get bigger and bigger. It’s because I didn’t realise that the turning chain of 2 actually counts as a stitch in double crochet. So there I was crocheting into the base of my turning chain without knowing I really needed to be going into the next one along. Rookie error!

fanning out

yarn noodles

practise piece- no longer fanning out, good to go!

Once I had learned how to do it properly, I ended up creating 30 regular rows (measuring approx 13.5 inches), plus 6 decrease rows, stitching 38, then invisible decrease two together, turn and repeat, for 6 rows. Then again on the other side, attaching the yarn to the 40th stitch (I think) ready to decrease, then working back along the other way.

I did have to unravel the neckline the first tine round, because I made it much too wide. Plus I didn’t attach the left side of the yarn from the centre, instead I turned the garment and did it from the edge going inwards, which messed up the stitch pattern. Plus, one side the tension was much too tight, so ended up being about 1cm shorter than the other side! I learned a lot making this!

finished neckline

The back panel was 34 regular rows, with just 2 decrease rows, stitching 33, then two together. I re-did the whole of the back panel actually, after having crocheted 29 rows. My tension was way off matching up with the first panel (much looser, so didn’t line up well enough). Again, beginner mistake and I didn’t realise that the tension would be so wildly off. But it was. And I wasn’t happy with it. So took the brave move of redoing the whole of the back panel, watching my tension as I went the second time round. It only took a day to rework it, so didn’t lose that much time in getting it back where it was, but still, it was a bit of a disappointment. But now I know to watch my tension better.

both finished panels- before any neckline shaping

I actually did the ribbing (single crochet, back loop only) before I had the full length of each of the panels, because I was testing the length of it on my body and to get a true idea of how it would look and hang with the ribbing attached, was to actually create and attach the ribbing. I did it 10 stitches tall, but no idea how many rows, because I didn’t need to count them as it was going straight on to the body. And why do extra counting when there’s no need?! I’m not that much of a masochist.

After I was satisfied with the two body panels, I stitched them together (wrong sides out) using single crochet, 3mm hook. Then, it was time to make the neck ribbing. I must admit, I’m super pleased with how that turned out! I did it the same method as creating the bottom ribbing, but instead of 10 stitches, I used just 5, because I didn’t want a turtle neck or owt like that for this garment.

I’d say, despite loving how it looks, on my next one, I’d prefer a slightly bigger neck hole as it would make it hang a little better, plus it would be a bit more comfortable when wearing it with a shirt or something underneath. It does feel quite up to my neck right now, but it’ll stretch over time, I’m sure. It’s not like suffocating me or anything, but a little more room would be nice! And yes, yes I am wearing it as I type. It’s actually really comfortable and warm. And not itchy. Win!

neck ribbing close up

Then the sleeves were next. These took quite quick, after I had got over the anxiety of ‘will the sleeve holes be too big/ small/ tight/ loose’ and so on. I measured the gap I left for the arm hole after sewing up the sides, times it by two and stitched a foundation chain of that length. The length was 15 inch (chain was just below), ending up with 59 stitches across (62 in the chain).

I wanted the sleeves to taper in, because I didn’t want the sleeves being super baggy along my forearms. Didn’t want them getting in the way or feeling annoying or anything! So I decided to decrease every so often. There was not an exact maths or science to this part! I just decreased an amount I felt was right. So my pattern went like: 4 rows (4R), decrease (de) at each end, 3R, de, 4R, de, 3R, de, 4R, de, 3R, de, 3R, de, 3R, de. So a total of 35 rows, measuring 15.25 inches.

With these, learning from the body panels, I was very aware of watching my tension throughout, especially with the second sleeve. But, as you can see from the picture below, I pretty much was able to replicate the first one almost like for like on the second.

The sleeve ribbing I created separately, because I wanted it to fit nicely round my wrists, but also with enough give so I’d be able to roll the sleeves up. Which they do without being either too tight or falling down. Again, I used the same method as before and here I used 10 stitches, so it matched the bottom cuff. These ended up being 37 rows each, measuring 7.5 inches across. I then single crocheted them to the sleeves.

I stitched the sleeves up (again using single crochet), and attached them to the sleeve holes: turning the main body wrong side out, with each sleeve being right side out. So right sides facing inside the garment. I made sure that the sleeve seams were at the bottom (underarm, rather than the shoulder) and then stitched round the hole, using stitch markers as pins to make sure it was evenly spaced round the opening.

And then, I had a new jumper. Well, apart from weaving in all those pesky ends! I now see why everyone on the crochet internet moans about that part. It’s sooo tedious!

I am so proud of the finished piece and also quite in disbelief at how I made it from very little experience. It fits just perfectly and I love the colour. Honestly can’t wait to be wearing it everywhere! Now I’ve sooo many ideas for more jumpers/ projects in general. There’s just never enough time in the day, plus I can’t lose sight of my animation career! Pics down below- watch this space as usual for more xo

35mm Pics

Can't say I was the most pleased with this roll of film, but here's some of the ones I quite liked. All taken with my Praktica BMS Electronic, using Kodak Colour Plus film.

Worcester City Women FC Photos (again)!!

Ooh I do love the FA Cup! Port Vale FC Women 1-2 Worcester City Women FC, Women's FA Cup First Round Proper, Emery's Stadium (revisit) 26/10/25. Full set here. Worcester now face league rivals Leafield Athletic Ladies away in the next round, tie to take place Sunday 23rd November.